Table of Contents

Encyclopedia Preface Preface to West Europe PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in West Europe The Study of Dress and Fashion in West Europe, Lise Skov SNAPSHOT: Diderot's Encyclopedia and the Study of Dress The Geographic and Cultural Regions, Lise Skov Ethnic (Folk) Dress in West Europe, Helen Bradley Foster SNAPSHOT: The Concept of National Dress in the Nordic Countries, Bjørn Sverre Hol Haugen SNAPSHOT: Why Does the United Kingdom Not Have National Dress?, Alison L. Goodrum The Dynamics of Fashion in West Europe, Bo Lönnqvist The Structure and Form of European Clothes, Peter McNeil SNAPSHOT: Madeleine Vionnet and the "Goddess" Gown Interpreting "Civilization" through Dress, Sandra Niessen PART 2: Early History of Dress and Fashion in West Europe Early History of Dress and Fashion in Continental West Europe, Mechthild Müller Early History of Dress and Fashion in Italy and the Iberian Peninsula, Carmen Alfaro Giner (Iberian Peninsula) and Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli (Italy, Translated by Ana Alacovska) Early History of Dress and Fashion in Great Britain and Ireland, Naomi E.A. Tarrant Early History of Dress and Fashion in the Nordic Countries, Eva B. Andersson, Margarita Gleba, Ulla Mannering, and Marianne Vedeler PART 3: The Fashion Industry in West Europe Materials, Giorgio Riello SNAPSHOT: Linen, Margarita Gleba SNAPSHOT: Wool, Ingun Grimstad Klepp (Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim and Kjetil Enstad) SNAPSHOT: Fur, Lise Skov SNAPSHOT: Silk, Giorgio Riello SNAPSHOT: Cotton, Giorgio Riello SNAPSHOT: Synthetics, Michiel Scheffer SNAPSHOT: Intelligent Textiles, Bradley Quinn The Textile Industry, Michiel Scheffer SNAPSHOT: Leading Firms, 1700-2010 SNAPSHOT: IT in the Clothing Industry, Céline Abecassis-Moedas The Apparel Industry, Jan Hilger European Retailers and Global Sourcing Networks, Lotte Thomsen SNAPSHOT: Creating a Collection in a Big Company, Kasper Tang Vangkilde Size and Fit in Industrially Produced Clothes, Karen Borregaard SNAPSHOT: Women's Experiences of Size and Fit Fashion Designers SNAPSHOT: Coco Chanel, Peter McNeil SNAPSHOT: Fashion Forecasting, Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson Fashion Photography, Patrik Aspers Fashion Journalism SNAPSHOT: Fashion Journalists, Kate Nelson Best Ethics and Industry, Lise Skov Home Production, Tone Rasch Care and Maintenance, Ingun Grimstad Klepp SNAPSHOT: Why Do Women Throw Out Clothes? (Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim and Kjetil Enstad) Secondhand Clothing, Heike Jenss PART 4: Continental West Europe France, Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell Paris as a Fashion City, Martine Elzingre (Translated by Pierre Hodgson) Belgium, Karlijn Bronselaer The Netherlands, José Teunissen SNAPSHOT: Viktor & Rolf SNAPSHOT: Hindeloopen Regional Dress (Translated by Michael Gibbs) Germany, Irene Guenther SNAPSHOT: Jews and the Berlin Fashion Industry Austria, Irene Guenther Switzerland, Sigrid Pallmert (Translated by Kirsten Warner and Philipp Thüring) PART 5: Italy and the Iberian Peninsula Italy, Elisabetta Merlo and Francesca Polese Milan as a Fashion City, Simona Segre Reinach Spain, Silvia Ventosa SNAPSHOT: Majos, the Meeting Point between Folk Dress and Fashion SNAPSHOT: Three Designers in Alto Costura (Translated by Lucy Lawton) Portugal, Paula C. G. da Costa Soares SNAPSHOT: Fashion Events in Portugal PART 6: Great Britain and Ireland England, Naomi E. A. Tarrant London as a Fashion City, Edwina Ehrman Scotland 305, Naomi E. A. Tarrant SNAPSHOT: Tweed, Fiona Anderson SNAPSHOT: Wales, Elen Phillips Ireland, Síle de Cléir SNAPSHOT: Limerick in the 1950s PART 7: Nordic Countries Sweden, Ulla Brück SNAPSHOT: The Swedish Clog Denmark, Marie Riegels Melchior Norway, Tone Rasch SNAPSHOT: Norwegian Folk Dress in the United States, Carol Colburn Sámi, Desiree Koslin Finland, Bo Lönnqvist Iceland, Æsa Sigurjónsdóttir Greenland, Cunera Buijs PART 8: Types of Dress Uniforms, Nigel Arch SNAPSHOT: Lufthansa Uniforms, Regina Henkel Sports and Dress, Ingun Grimstad Klepp (Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim and Kjetil Enstad) SNAPSHOT: Bathing, Nigel Yates Underwear, Grace Evans SNAPSHOT: The Corset Accessories, Valerie Cumming SNAPSHOT: Hats SNAPSHOT: Glasses SNAPSHOT: Gloves SNAPSHOT: Handbags Jewelry, Gabriele Mentges Footwear, Giorgio Riello SNAPSHOT: Salvatore Ferragamo SNAPSHOT: Sports Shoes Cosmetics and Skin Care, Brian Moeran and Lise Skov Fragrances and Perfumes, Brian Moeran SNAPSHOT: Chanel N° 5 PART 9: Peoples and Dress Religion and Dress, Nigel Yates, Dan Cohn-Sherbok, and Dawoud El-Alami SNAPSHOT: Muslim Dress and the Head-Scarf Debate, Annelies Moors SNAPSHOT: North American Infl uences on West European Dress, Rebecca Arnold Class, Work, and Dress, Alexandra Kim SNAPSHOT: Smocks Gender, Gertrud Lehnert Children's Clothes, Viveka Berggren Torell SNAPSHOT: Sexualization of Preteen Girls in Norway, Mari Rysst Subcultural Dress, David Muggleton and Dunja Brill Lesbian and Gay Dress, Shaun Cole Body and Beauty, Patrizia Calefato (Translated by Sveva Scaramuzzi) SNAPSHOT: Beauty, Nature, and Equality, Ingun Grimstad Klepp Costume for Dance, Helena Wulff SNAPSHOT: Carnival, Lidia Sciama Music and Dress, Else Skjold Visual Media and Dress, Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson SNAPSHOT: Historical Dress in French Film, Jennie Cousins Art and Dress SNAPSHOT: Elsa Schiaparelli, Peter McNeil The Novel and Dress, Clair Hughes Index

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This is the first comprehensive reference work on Western European dress and fashion, both past and present.

About the Author

EDITOR: Lise Skov is Associate Professor of Creative Industries at Copenhagen Business School. She is the Editor of the Consumption in Asia book series, and co-editor of Women, Media and Consumption in Japan. CONSULTING EDITOR: Valerie Cumming is Chairman, The Costume Society, and formerly Deputy Director and Chief Curator, Museum of London.