List of Illustrations, 4; Acknowledgements, 16; Introduction, 17; Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear; New York City, 61; Sportswear, 84; Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I, 102; Chapter Two: American Body Culture; Body Image/Body Culture, 119; Health and Hygiene, 132; Exercise and Dance, 147; Sports Body, 164; Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Depression; Effects of the Depression, 189; Career Women, 207; Fashion Group, 226; Chapter Four: Sportswear's Promotion During the 1930s; New York Department Stores, 240; Fashion Media, 259; The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s, 279; Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Second World War; Effects of the Second World War, 298. Sportswear Design and Representation, 222; Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II, 237; Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer; The American Look, 372; New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism, 394; The Woman of Fashion 1947, 414; Conclusion, 431; Bibliography, 456; Index.
Rebecca Arnold is Guest Professor in Fashion Studies at Stockholm University. She was previously Senior Lecturer at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design in London where she established the first undergraduate degree in Fashion History & Theory. She has lectured and written widely on twentieth century fashion. Her first book, 'Fashion, Desire & Anxiety: Image & Morality in the Twentieth Century' was published by I.B. Tauris in 2001.
"'Written with clarity, elegance and meticulous attention to detail, this important new book raises the bar for fashion scholarship. Here is a genuinely new history that both challenges existing myths about Paris and sets American fashion in its proper cultural and economic context. Rebecca Arnold's adroit study shows how the lens of fashion can be refocused to reveal important insights about gender, identity and nationhood.' - Caroline Evans, Professor of Fashion History and Theory, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design University of the Arts London"