Foreword – Gerda Pauler
Preface
I Food and Equipment
II Karachi to Abbottabad
III The Approach March
IV Gilgit—Arrival and Departure
V The Jaglot Approaches
VI The Two Ridges
VII The Dainyor Nallah
VIII The Kukuay Glacier
IX Chalt to Misgar
X Misgar to Tashkurghan
XI Muztagh Ata
XII To Kashgar
XIII Another Way Home
XIV The Oxus Source
XV Sarhad to Ishkashim—Open Arrest
XVI Ishkashim—Close Arrest
XVII Destination Unknown
XVIII Faizabad and Freedom
Harold William ‘Bill’ Tilman (1898–1977) was among the greatest adventurers of his time, a pioneering mountaineer and sailor who held exploration above all else. Tilman joined the army at seventeen and was twice awarded the Military Cross for bravery during WWI.
After the war Tilman left for Africa, establishing himself as a coffee grower. He met Eric Shipton and began their famed mountaineering partnership, traversing Mount Kenya and climbing Kilimanjaro. Turning to the Himalaya, Tilman went on two Mount Everest expeditions, reaching 27,000 feet without oxygen in 1938. In 1936 he made the first ascent of Nanda Devi – the highest mountain climbed until 1950.
It was perhaps logical then that Tilman would eventually buy the pilot cutter Mischief – not with the intention of retiring from travelling, but to access remote mountains. For twenty-two years Tilman sailed Mischief and her successors to Patagonia, where he crossed the vast ice cap, and to Baffin Island to make the first ascent of Mount Raleigh. He made trips to Greenland, Spitsbergen and the South Shetlands, before disappearing in the South Atlantic Ocean in 1977.
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